Alps Mountaineering
Chamonix with an American Guide
The Alps in France, Italy and Switzerland offer town and hut-based mountaineering and climbing for all abilities. Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn are the most popular because they are high and iconic, but many other peaks have better climbing. Joe's favorite trip is to meet in Chamonix and climb moderate technical day routes each day.
Hire Your Guide Directly
Hire a guide, not a guide service. A guide service is just an office. The guide is who keeps you alive. All American guides in the Alps are IFMGA-licensed. If you hire a guide directly, rather than go through a guide service, it will cost you less, the guide will make more, and you will both be happier. Find one of the 100+ IFMGA-licensed American Mountain Guides on the AMGA Hire-A-Guide page.
Dates
July 20-Sept 20 each year
Joe's Choice: Chamonix Climbing
Climb the Chamonix classics. Depending on conditions and your interests, we can choose from classics such as:
Cosmiques Arete, the classic intro-level mixed route on the Aiguille du Midi.
Entreves Traverse, easy fifth class climbing on an exposed ridge high above Courmayeur, Italy.
Frison-Roche (5.10-) on the Brevant.
Chapelle de la Glière (5.9) in the Aiguille Rouges, a long and moderate alpine rock climb.
Popular Itinerary: Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Europe at 4,810m (15,774’). The normal Gouter route on Mont Blanc involves a 2,000-foot scramble followed by exposed glacier travel to the summit. It is a bigger and technically more difficult climb than the normal routes on Mount Rainier and more difficult than Kilimanjaro. You must be fit and be able to scramble. The itinerary below is one suggestion. We can also acclimatize the Gran Paradiso, the highest mountain in Italy, or on climbs above the Vallée Blanche.
Day 0: Meet at your hotel in Chamonix for gear check and trip overview.
Day 1: Hike to Albert Premier Refuge (2,702m). Review ice skills.
Day 2: Climb to Trient Refuge (3,170m), reviewing glacier skills along the way.
Day 3: Climb Aiguille du Tour (3,529m). Return to Chamonix.
Day 4: Hike to Tete Rousse Refuge (3,187m) on Mont Blanc.
Day 5: Climb Mont Blanc via the Gouter Route. Stay at the Gouter Refuge (3,815m/12,582’).
Day 6: Return to Chamonix.
France and Italy Rate
1 client: $700 USD per day
2 clients: $400 USD per person per day (moderate-technical)
3 clients: $300 USD per person per day (non-technical)
See booking.
Switzerland Rate
The higher rate is because Switzerland is expensive and Joe must pay extra for lodging and lifts when away from Chamonix.
1 client: $800 USD per day
2 clients: $450 USD per person per day (moderate-technical)
3 clients: $350 USD per person per day (non-technical)
Includes
AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide Joe Stock
Guide lodging, lifts, and food
Hut booking
Rope and rack
Navigation kit, first aid kit, and shelter
Does Not Include
Personal gear. See Alps Mountaineering Gear List.
Client hut fees: about €50 per night per person, except about €100 on the Gouter and CHF150 at the Hornli Hut.
Client transport: about €25-60 per day, except CHF100 in Switzerland. A rental car is not necessary, but is a nice addition to keep our options open beyond the Chamonix valley.
Client food. Breakfast and dinner are included with hut fees.
Guide transport including buses, trains and cars. The guides will cover their own lifts.
Rescue insurance, required.
Trip cancellation insurance, recommended.
Wire fee, if applicable.
Links
Chamonix Meteo weather
Chamonix.com weather
Chamonix.com for schedules, weather, etc
Chamonix.net for schedules
Camp to Camp, for route info
Topo Escalade a Chamonix, go to Topos
Getting to Chamonix from Geneva
Mountain Drop Offs (most reliable)
about €20-35 each way
To find the bus when arriving in Geneva, exit baggage claim, walk directly across the hall to the info booth, purchase a ticket for the next shuttle to Chamonix. Then check in at the shuttle service booth, which is 200 feet to the right of the info booth. The shuttle takes about an hour and a half to Chamonix.
Staying in Chamonix
Le Chamoniard Volant: perhaps the cheapest in town.
Pointe Isabelle: Joe’s recommendation.
Le Faucigny: central Chamonix, nice bed and breakfast.
Eating in Chamonix
Joe's favorite Chamonix eating zones
Cham Sud for burgers and beer at the South Bar or Bighorn. Happy hour at Beckett and Wilde.
Train station for food and beer at Elevation, Chambre Neuf or Moos.
Rue des Moulin for pizza or a fancy meal.
Annapurna: Indian
Elevation: salads, beer, coffee, people watching.
Midnight Express: fast and cheap sandwiches.
Casa Valerio: pizza, Italian food and attitude.
Zermatt Links
Hotel City: the guide favorite. Joe’s recommendation.
Meteo Swiss: precipitation forecast animation, get the app.
Maps of Switzerland online