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Entries in Avalanche (3)

Saturday
Oct302010

Kris Erickson

Is it possible to match Andrew McLean? I've wracked my brain since his visit for the Friends of the Chugach Avalanche Center fundraiser last year. Then I remembered Kris Erickson.
 
Kris and I met as youthful ice climbers in Bozeman almost 20 years ago. Since then we see each other at trade shows and at Hans Saari Memorial Fund events. He's a sick climber and skier and an incredible photographer. Think all-mountain Beat Kammerlander or Heinz Zak. I knew he'd respect the salty Anchorage crowd that would pack the Beartooth to see him speak. 
 
On October 28 over 400 people filled the Beartooth as Kris told yarns from skiing the world - Alaska, Morocco, Nepal, Pakistan. The event raised over $10,000 for the Friends. These funds go toward weather stations, snow machines and travel expenses for the Chugach Avalanche Center. 
 
After the event Kris and I played. We skied the Jewel Glacier above Crow Pass for a view, then we visited Pivot Point. Last year Ryan Hokanson and I scrubbed out a seven-problem dry tool bouldering circuit at Pivot Point. Ryan went to school in Salt Lake and I've been unable to find any loco recruits since then. For some reason Anchoragites think climbing mossy, chosspiles in the rain is weird. Maybe it is, but Kris understood. He's a hard climber. We had a blast. 
 
 Raven Peak and the Raven Glacier from the Jewel Glacier.
 
 
At Pivot Point we warmed up on easy jug hauls. 
 
 
Kris on the Jay Rowe traverse. 
 
 
Several of the problems Ryan and I scrubbed out last year had become chalked boulder problems over the summer. We know dry toolers staked the original claim!
 
 
Kris grabbed the camera when I finally ticked a full linkup of this traverse after 20-something tries over a year. 
 
 
Then we spied a mossy and chossy gem in the forest. We scrubbed off the deep vegetables and removed the dangerous boulders. Then we pumped ourselves silly and took glorious tumbling falls into the leaves and devils club. The best part is we didn't come close to finishing the problem. We walked away giggling with aching arms. A project! 
 
 
Thanks for coming up Kris! 
Wednesday
Feb172010

Snow has Energy?

I've heard friends say "the snow didn't have any energy," or "the new snow was humming with elastic energy." I've been wondering, how can snow have energy? Maybe when it's avalanching, but how about when it's just sitting there?

Cathy and Jeff Conaway described energy to me in terms of potential energy that accumulates in a column of snow before the snow settles or the weak layer disipates. Kinetic energy is released when the weak layer is triggered into an avalanche or it consolidates. Sounds like you need a Ph.D in geomagitianism to know if the slope will avalanche or not.

Okay, what really is energy? I need a non-physics answer. 

I consulted Tremper's Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain. He writes "Researchers believe that shear quality does a good job of determining energy in the snowpack...High quality shears break on a clean, planar surface and pop out with 'energy' like they're spring-loaded. Canadians describe them as 'pops and drops,' meaning they pop out with energy or they collapse." Oh, that makes sense. That's why we emphasize shear quality in stability tests.

Energy is also used to describe avalanche release as one of the three slices of the snowpack stability wheel: 1) Strength from stability test results, such as the rutshblock or compression test, 2) Energy measured as the shear quality of the failure plane, and 3) Structure of the snow layering measured by yellow flags or lemons. While stability tests and shear quality show us how likely the weak layer is to fail at that spot (the pit location), yellow flags help determine if the failure will spread and cause an avalanche.

My question becomes: must we conduct a compression test and measure shear quality to determine snowpack energy? Not necessarily, I think. Some snowpack has energy that is obvious through red flags: whoomphing, shooting cracks and hollow sounds. You can also feel energy in the snowpack through your skiis, such as punchy conditions from new snow over depth hoar for or a skittery, buried crust.

Problematic energy is the type you can't observe through a keen backcountry snow sense. This is the energy you can't see, feel or hear. An example is that lingering depth hoar layer that shows up as a CT25 Q1 at 45 cm in the compression test. As Henry Munter from Chugach Powder Guides put it, "I guess I just don't see how anyone could, see, feel, intuit, or otherwise sense the energy stored in deep slab instabilities without getting some gloves and eyeballs into a pit..."

I'm now thinking there is 'observed energy' and 'measured energy.' What do you think? If you've read this far then you better send me an email!

Saturday
Oct242009

Andrew McLean

Andrew McLean packed the Beartooth Theater Pub with 420 people for his show on skiing Denali, Hunter and Foraker. This was a fundraiser for the Chugach National Forest Avalanche Information Center.  Andrew's feats and humor kept the Anchorage community laughing, drinking beer and itching for winter. Thanks for coming Andrew!

Andrew McLean is the foremost ski mountaineer in the United States. He has made first ski descents on all seven continents and wrote The Chuting Gallery, the definitive guide to steep skiing in the Wasatch Mountains. Andrew worked as a designer for Black Diamond and developed many of our favorite toys such as camalots and whippets. His witty and hilarious writing is a regular part of Powder, Backcountry, Skiing and Black Diamond.

Check out his web sites straightchuter.com and pawprince.com.

Winter has been late this year--Andrew didn't bring his sticks. Instead we climbed Alaska's most popular mountain, the almighty Flattop.   

 

Flattop summit in typical winter wind and no snow. 

 

Wait! There is snow! Andrew route finding and kicking steps near the summit of Flattop.