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Tuesday
Mar112014

Ecto Cooler

I wonder why everyone doesn't love dry tooling. You get out in the fresh air, pump yourself silly, get covered with dirt and hang out with a bunch of motivated dudes. Way better than whinging around home about the unstable snowpack. 

I recently got out with the new generation of strong Anchorage climbers. Josh Hoeschen, Dusty Eroh and Todd Tumolo are Alaska Range guides and grads of Alaska Pacific University's Outdoor Studies program. They live and breath climbing. 

Here's Josh cranking the first ascent of Ecto Cooler, a vertical clip-up near Anchorage. It was dumping sticky snow all day, obscuring the edges and frozen turf, making the route grades harder. 

 

Josh steinpulling for a bolt clip. By cramming his pick under a small roof, he can lever out for greater reach, like pulling a stein of beer. 

 

Josh controlling his pump while torquing Nomics into a seam. Notice his special edition Patagonia Snowflake Pullover. 

 

Next up was Todd Tumolo. He also floated the route, despite our huge session the day before. 

 

Todd eyeballing the next clip.

 

Then went Dusty Eroh, a guide, APU grad and sweatshopper at El Parsones Revelate Designs. Last summer in the Alaska Range Dusty climbed Shaken, Ham and Eggs, Hut Tower, the Cassin and guided two West Butts.  

 

Dusty onsighting the entry overhangs, until he dropped a tool and lost the flash. 

 

Dusty pulled up another tool and kept climbing. He came back the next day and sent the route. Sending the route also took me a few days. Luckily I ticked it off, because the snow is stabilizing and soon it will be ski time. Thanks for the great climbing Todd, Josh and Dusty!