Mount Logan, (19,545'/5,957m)

 June 1-22, 2012 East Ridge or King Trench depending on interest

Canada's highest, North America's second highest

Mount Logan seen from Mount Bona.
In June 2012, depending on interest, I will guide Mountain Logan. Please send me an email or contact Jeremy Allyn at Mountain Madness (1-800-328-5925 or info@mountainmadness.com). This trip will either be on snowshoes via the King Trench or a climb of the East Ridge.
 
The King Trench is similar to the West Buttress route on Denali minus the crowds. See a post from our ascent of King Trench in June 2011. The East Ridge is similar to the West Rib on Denali with exposure, fixed lines, and moderate technical terrain. The East Ridge requires solid skills with experience over 19,000 feet and technical climbing, and sub zero weather. As Alaska mountain expert Blaine Smith put it, "Logan is more Denali than Denali."
 

References 

  • Alpinist 31
  • Mountainforecast.com 
  • A Climber's Guide to the St. Elias Mountains by Richard Holmes, pages 140-169. 
  • The Best Ski Touring in America by Steve Barnett, pages 170-176. 
  • USGS 1:250,000-scale map: Mt. St. Elias, Alaska-Canada. 
  • Canadian 1:50,000 Maps: McArthur Peak, 115C09; King Peak, 115C10, from Federal Maps Inc., www.fedmaps.com, 888-545-8111

King Trench Elevations

  • Chitna:                           1,300 feet / 400 meters
  • Base Camp:                    8,430 feet / 2,570 meters
  • Camp 1:                         8,860 feet / 2,700 meters
  • Camp 2:                       10,800 feet / 3,290 meters
  • Camp 3, King Col:         13,400 feet / 4,085 meters
  • Camp 4, Football Field:  15,860 feet / 4,835 meters
  • Prospector’s Col:           18,130 feet / 5,525 meters
  • Camp 5, High Camp:     16,900 feet / 5,150 meters
  • Summit:                       19,545 feet / 5,957 meters

King Trench Itinerary

  • This schedule will change primarily due to weather and possible flight delay. The rest days are often dictated by weather, group health and acclimatization.
  • Since our air taxi is US-based, we will land on the US side of the border. This landing zone is a six-hour sledge from the Canada landing zone. The Canadian weather is much worse, making the US option preferable.
  • The camp names are what we’ll use. These are not standardized.
  • Depending on weather and schedules, we may spend a night camping at Ultima Thule on the Chitna River midway between Chitna and Base Camp.
  • Mountain air taxis require patience. There will inevitably be flight delays. These can be several days long. Be mentally prepared

Day 0 (May 31): Team meeting at 10am in Anchorage at the Snow City Café in downtown for a trip briefing. We’ll then have individual gear checks at The Coastal Place B&B. This allows time to pick up last minute gear at AMH, REI or Fred Meyer. Dinner at the Mooses Tooth.

Day 1 (June 1): Travel to Chitna and fly to Base Camp. The shuttle will pick us up at the hotel at 7am for the five-hour drive to Chitina, Alaska. This is arguably the most dramatic road in state as it winds between the Talkeetna and Chugach Mountains, and then into the Wrangell Mountains. In Chitina, we’ll meet legendary bush pilot Paul Claus of Ultima Thule. He'll fly us 45 minutes to his lodge near the headwaters of the Chitina River and re-fuel. Weather permitting, we’ll fly to base camp on the Quintino Sella Glacier on the U.S. side of the border. If necessary, we’ll stay at Ultima Thule Lodge to wait for flyable weather.

Day 2 (June 2): Single carry to Camp 1. A six-hour, night-schedule haul on lower angle glacier to the entrance of the King Trench.

Day 3 (June 3): Carry to Camp 2.

Day 4 (June 4): Move to Camp 2.

Day 5 (June 5): Rest at camp 2.

Day 6 (June 6): Carry to 12,500 below Camp 3, return to Camp 2.

Day 7 (June 7): Move to Camp 3 at King Col (13,400') below the imposing King Peak (North America's ninth highest summit at 16,972').

Day 8 (June 8): Backcarry and rest at Camp 3.

Day 9 (June 9): Carry to 15,300 feet. From King Col we’ll route find up the MacCarthy Gap, a 1,500-foot high slope with angles of up to 45 degrees. This is a crux of the climb, but does not involve technical climbing. Make a cache at around 15,300 feet for Camp 4 and return to King Col.

Day 10 (June 10): Move to Camp 4 (15,860') on the Football Field.

Day 11 (June 11): Back carry to 15,300 feet. A short day, then rest and acclimatize.

Day 12 (June 12): Carry to Prospector’s Col (Iona Col) at 18,000 feet and leave a cache. Return to Camp 4. A tough day at altitude.

Day 13 (June 13): Rest and acclimatize at Camp 4 before the big move to high camp.

Day 14 (June 14): Move to Camp 5 on the summit plateau. We’ll grab three days of food at Prospector's Col along the way before descending to camp on the great ice plateau. 

Day 15-19 (June 15-19): Possible summit days. It is a long, high altitude walk of 3 - 4 miles to the summit from high camp. It is not difficult terrain, but a very demanding day of 10-15 hours. Return to camp 5.

Day 20 (June 20): Climb back over Prospectors Col and descend to Camp 4.

Day 21 (June 21): Descend to Camp 2 or continue as far as possible. We’ll collect caches along the way. At Camp 2 we’ll switch back to night schedule for the lower-elevation travel to Base Camp.  

Day 22 (June 22): Descend to Base Camp. Fly to Chitna, travel to Anchorage with a late evening arrival. Final dinner at the Bear Tooth Grill.

 

East Ridge Itinerary 

This schedule will change primarily due to weather and possible flight delay. The rest days are often dictated by weather, group health and acclimatization. 

Day -1 Team meeting at 10am in Anchorage, Alaska. Our group will meet at 10 a.m. in Anchorage at the hotel where most clients are staying (to be determined). We will check gear and discuss the route. This allows time to pick up last minute gear at AMH, REI or Fred Meyer. Team dinner at the Beartooth Grill in Anchorage.

Day 0 (May 31): 12-hour drive to Haines Junction.

Day 1 (June 1): Fly to Base Camp. (7,700’)

Day 2 (June 2): Carry load to Camp 1 (9,000’). Return to BC

Day 3 (June 3): Acclimatize and review glacier travel skills at base camp

Day 4 (June 4): Move to Camp 1 (9,000’)

Day 5 (June 5): Carry to Camp 2 (11,000’)

Day 6 (June 6): Move to Camp 2 (11,000’) 

Day 7 (June 7): Rest at Camp 2. 

Day 8 (June 8): Carry to Camp 3 (13,500’). 

Day 9 (June 9): Move to Camp 3. 

Day 10 (June 10): Rest at Camp 3

Day 11 (June 11): Carry to Camp 4 (15,500’)

Day 12 (June 12): Move to Camp 4. 

Day 13 (June 13): Rest at Camp 4. 

Day 14 (June 14): Carry to Camp 5 (16,500’)

Day 15 (June 15): Move to Camp 5

Day 16 (June 16): Carry to Camp 6 (17,500’)

Day 17 (June 17): Rest at Camp 5. 

Day 18 (June 18): Move to Camp 6. 

Day 19-21 (June 19): Summit. 

Day 22: Descend to Camp 3 

Day 23: Descend to Base Camp

Day 24: Fly to Haines Junction, travel to Anchorage

 

King Trench Cost (East Ridge will be ~$1,000 more /person)

  • $6,200 each for 3 customers, 2 guides
  • $5,900 each for 4 customers, 2 guides 
  • $5,600 each for 5 customers, 2 guides
  • Max group size of 6:2
  • Deposit: $500

Cost Includes

  • Guide services, permits, logistics
  • Food and fuel once on the mountain
  • Tents
  • Group climbing gear
  • Emergency communication

Cost Excludes

  • Airfare to Anchorage
  • Glacier flight for yourself ($900 each) and the 2 guides (this cost will be split amongst the group)
  • Transportation from Anchorage to Chitna for yourself ($200 each)
  • All meals and accommodations in town
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Guide gratuities

Gear List

Available upon making a deposit. 

 

Wrangell-Saint Elias bush pilot Paul Claus with his Dehaviland Turbo Otter in Chitna.